We spent Valentine’s weekend in Martimoaava. Our group of six met on Friday, February 14th, around 6 PM at the parking area of Jeager’s hut. We packed our sleds and set off towards Kivalo wilderness hut, climbing up in the light of our headlamps. The temperature was about -13°C.
Among us, two had glide snowshoes, two had fjell skis, and two had forest skis. I used forest skis. I worked up a good sweat just walking along the road, as my skis had almost no grip on the slippery surface, especially with a heavy sled in tow. Skiing on the narrow uphill track was also tricky, but we made it.
We set up our tent village near the observation tower. As we started preparing supper in the tent, we realized the gas stove wasn’t working. So, we moved into the hut for dinner. A couple was already staying there, but we managed to squeeze our whole group around the table—there’s always room if you make some. Fortunately, we got the stove to work somewhat. The sharp, cold wind blew over the fell, but the dazzling northern lights and stunning moonlight were even more breathtaking.
We had a cozy evening warming up in the hut, sipping cocoa, and sharing stories. Later, we moved to our tents for the night. It was warm and comfortable, though the wind battered the tent throughout the night, making for some rather exciting dreams. I used a three-season sleeping bag along with a summer sleeping bag for extra warmth.
We woke up between 7 and 8 AM, packed our gear back into the sleds, and moved into the hut for breakfast. While sipping coffee, we boiled water for the journey and prepared an Italian stew in a food thermos with pre-cooked minced meat. Our goal for the day was the Koivuselkä wilderness hut. The plan was to descend via a gentler slope further south and then traverse the open marshes toward Koivuselkä. Our group shrank to four, as two members headed home.
If climbing uphill was tough, going downhill on forest skis wasn’t much easier. First, we skied southward from the hut along the ridge, where the slope was gentler, and the forest narrower. From there, we started weaving toward the open marsh. Navigating between trees and rocks in deep snow was tricky. My sled had rigid shafts, while others used rope pulls. I quickly realized that forest skis were not ideal for maneuvering downhill with a sled in tow. We developed a system where Jarkko held both sleds, I moved a short distance down the slope, and then he sent the sleds down for me to catch. This method got us safely to level ground.
The descent was a bit of a struggle, but also incredibly fun. We laughed at our own and each other’s clumsy attempts at skiing. I even wished I could go down faster, but forest skis aren’t great for braking in narrow spots.
From the edge of the slope, we skied through beautiful snowy woods until we reached the Lautiosaari-Puukkokumpu ski trail. We decided to have lunch along the trail, choosing a sunny spot to eat our Italian stew from the thermos. I have to admit, the stew had the consistency of porridge—the pasta and other ingredients had turned into mush. Maybe rice-based meals would hold their texture better in a thermos.
We continued toward Koivuselkä. The first few kilometers took us through the forests of Kivalo, and the rest of the journey opened up into the wide plains of Lumiaava. On the marsh, forest skis were at their best—I could have gone much faster than the others since the snow held up well. However, after the previous day’s climb, my legs were already burning, so even my pace slowed down.
We arrived at Koivuselkä wilderness hut around 5 PM. We packed down a spot for the tent at the edge of the marsh and moved into the hut to prepare dinner. The hut was empty for the evening, except for a couple of passersby. For dinner, we made mashed potatoes with smoked salmon and enjoyed some red wine. According to the guestbook, the hut’s missing window had once been covered with foil, later replaced by a pot lid.
For dessert, we set up our tent and prepared our gear for the night. There was so little snow that we barely needed to dig out a spot. The evening passed pleasantly, chatting and enjoying the warmth of the hut. Before bed, we fried bacon and eggs for supper and the next morning’s breakfast.
During the night, the sky clouded over, hiding the moon and stars. The wind had calmed down, making for a better night’s sleep in the silence. The temperature fluctuated, and the air became damp—by morning, the surface of my sleeping bag was moist, even though all the vents were open.
n the morning, we ate breakfast in the hut, then packed up camp. I made sandwiches from the remaining bread and tucked them into my chest pocket to keep them warm. The weather was foggy at the start, with temperatures around -10°C. As the day progressed, the sky cleared, and we enjoyed sunshine and stunning frost-covered scenery. We skied along the hiking trail to Saunasaari, where we took a snack break. After eating, we followed the trail back to our cars.
It was wonderful to be out with a larger group again. The trip had the perfect mix of quiet moments, laughter, and hard-earned sweat. The only downside was the food—it’s hard not to feel a little jealous when others are cooking gourmet meals while you’re eating a ready-made dish.
Translated via ChatGTP
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